Friday, April 15, 2011

alive with no internet !

We are ok, amazing time, amazing learning experience! diagnosing on our own ! and having a blast even though misery is everywhere.
Still no internet, probably until monday when we go to the airport....
Until then..
Namaste
Mo.

Monday, April 11, 2011

Warangal we made it !

Dear readers,
Many appologies for the lack of updates, unfortunately we do not have internet at our current location in Warangal, the site of our DO CARE mission. Our only access is located in the city which we cannot access everyday and does not allow us to use our personnel computer so we will not be able to update pictures for a while. Just a quick message letting you know that we modify our travel plans from Mumbai to Hyderabad and decided to take the plane instead of the 14 hours overnight train. It was a great decision, I was able to recover to a decent enough state to travel and as I type today,Monday April 11 I am almost completely recovered. HOWEVER
It is Heather's time.... she has gotten the exact same scheme as I did and her fever begun at the airport before boarding to Hyderabad. She unfortunately had to stay in the first day which worked out ok since the rest of our team was delayed in arriving for another day.
The father in charge of the center here in Warangal picked us up in Hyderabad at 11pm on Saturday and from there it was a horrible, HORRIBLE drive back to the center which is located in Warangal about 3 hours North East. Heather become sick on the way and the rest of us were really working hard to keep our food in.
We made it to the nunnery where we are hosted. They really are fantastic, we are 2 per room, with partial Air Conditionning ! Phenomenal ! the first time in our trip so far. They are here to host us and are constantly offering us food and water or Chaiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii.
We spent an ok night trying to recuperate as well as the next day. The others joined us mid afternoon Sunday.
Our team is composed of 5 women, Dr Voelpel from Michigan State University COM a hematologist/oncologist as well as Nisha on of her 4th her med student going into Pediatrics, Donna from New Jersey also a 4th year DO going into FamilyMed in New Jersey  , Heather and I.
Sunday late after was a lot of the welcoming, which beautiful flower laces, and a 2-3h planning meeting during which the schedule for our week was created, as well as an exchange between the working team of Salva Prema and DO CARE team.
MOre to come on another email about the dynamics which are VERY interested. Just a glance of the next email: their team is composed of Father Grugni, an italian cardialogist from milan converted Priest once in India and 7 of his "Medical Assistant" all males. They are in charge of the treatment and follow up of EVERY single TB case in warangal once they are diagnosed. They also work in orphanages, HIV/AIDS patients and Leprosy.
TOday we split in 2 groups, one went on the back of motorcycle out in the poor neighbourhoods to insure compliance of the TB drugs , the other group spent the morning at a "free clinic/derm clinic" in a small room also in one of the poor sides of town. We all spent the afternoon, providing derm diagnosis and "treatments" in orphanages for HIV patients and boarding schools sponsored by the church for orphans or poor children. BUSY day.,
Now i must go to the dinner the nuns have prepared for us, delicious, but unfortunately heather and I are sticking to the white rice, potatoes, bananas and water regiment :) until we are allllllllllllllllll better !
Oh and Heather says " Hi Mom, don't worry :) I am ok and being taken care of"
Cheers !
Mo.

Friday, April 8, 2011

Pics from our Day 1 in Agra

reorganizing the weight at the airport

Our first Hotel and our sleeping arrangements

Daily "candy" 

All modes of transportation sharing the road: motorcycle, took-took, bicycle and water buffalo/cow

washing station

Baby Taj in Agra

tough day for some of us

Amazing details of the Baby Taj's marble


My friend for the day !

amazing landscape and peace in the park


Into the hard life of the launderers


daily meal for the pigs 

Taj Mahal from the water bank

My favorite view from the fields

Our limo for the day and the best guide ever: Mr. K.K

The true meaning of "water" in water buffalo - a herd swimming together

the beauty of imposing nature and splendid architecture


first view of the Taj walking in

becoming a super star. This family was the first one to ask heather to pause with their son. Multiple other request will follow

so cliche but so much fun!


incredible writing and design all around the door

new fashion, required to walk on any marble monument

thugs

daily episode of sinus wash- required by Mama Snyder but oh so useful out here!

luxurious bathroom or how to save space







Thursday, April 7, 2011

Thoughts from a Mumbai Hostel -- early morning once again


4/8/11  - although now I want to write it 8/4/11 because it took me multiple days to remember to put it in correct “European” order and I don’t want to start mixing them up.

8:28am.  Mumbai.  Very nice and clean hostel, with helpful people at the front desk who speak English.  Well enough, infact, that I only have to try to explain once that we’d like to stay another night tonight because Mo is sick.  Like SICK, not just like has a little tummy ache.  She has a fever, chills, sweats, headache, vomiting, and diarrhea since yesterday evening.  She started on immodium and pepto last night, and cipro (yay antibiotics!) this morning.  Now she’s just moving around and muttering in her sleep.  The sleep part is good.   Everyone knows about traveler’s stomach, and we have both been super good about only using bottled water, not eating street food, and not eating fruits or veggies uncooked from anywhere.  Still, it crept into the travel plans like every traveler hopes it won’t, and here we are just waiting for the jaws of misery to release.

Mo actually ended up becoming sick yesterday during the tour, but for reasons other than the tour itself most likely.  Our slum tour was very eye opening, and I keep realizing that I don’t know anything about anything that really matters.  Did you know a slum is really just a housing development that is built upon government land?  The slum that we toured yesterday, Dharvia (sp?), is actually the most densely populated slum in the world.  There are more than 1 million people in a 1.7km area (don’t know area in miles for the US folks, they deal in km here…), and this particular slum is where the movie Slumdog Millionaire was filmed.  So we walked in expecting filth, poverty, crime, mosquitos, dying children, no water or power or hope, and who knows what other stereotypical “poverty” images either one of us could imagine.  We actually did end up seeing some of these things, but overall both of us decided that the neighborhood in delhi we stayed in was actually much worse (Mo did find out that our delhi neighborhood was known for being poor and had the most homeless children in the city, so that makes sense now…). 

What we did end up seeing was people actually migrating to the slum because there is so much work happening there in plastic recycling that the pay is better than working somewhere else.  We saw pottery workers that leased part of their land so their houses are not “legally” a slum anywhere, and saw schools and hospitals and jobs for women and men and saw kids playing everywhere.  Yes, rooms were around ten by ten for whole families to live, and public bathrooms were shared between huge numbers of residents, and sanitation was a river running through the complex, but it was still eye opening (again) that this is just life, and life happens everywhere. 

Our awesome guide also was a lot of fun.  Mo and I kept peppering him with questions, and he told me to relax about 100 times.  Perhaps I get a little tense sometimes… hmmm…something to keep in mind for the future…  But he ended up offering to take Mo and I on a tours around Mumbai the next day (today), in exchange for going to see a Bollywood moving with him.  So we said yes in the spirit of fun, and ended up going with him and two of his friends.  Interesting movie, as I had never seen Bollywood before, but we ended up leaving about 30 minutes into the movie as that was when Mo got really sick.  Headed back to hotel, couldn’t communicate with cabbie at all, dropped us off a few streets away, Mo got sick on the street, we finally found the hotel, and both went to sleep right away.  Harsh end to a very enlightening day, but isn’t that the way it always is?  Today is another day, however, and it will begin very soon with trying to communicate to the Chemist/Druggist down that street that I need ibuprophen.  How I love traveling!  More later on my own ignorance of Indian customs and cultures.

Heather

12:03pm.  Mo says she’s fine now (and told me to say hello to her mother, and let you know that she ate a piece of toast this morning).  So, “Hi mom, don’t freak out, I really am ok” from Mo.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Multi-Day Travels... AKA rambling now that I have free time


It’s 6:02am, on April 6th (Happy Birthday mom!).  I don’t know if it is Monday or Tuesday or some other day currently, but I’ll probably look that up some time.  I fell asleep at around 5:30pm last night when I got on the sleeper train (more about this awesome train with super yummy food later), and I woke up about 3 hours ago.  So I suppose my mental time clock is still having serious issues.  I have no idea how I would have been able to adjust in just one day, but it is making me so glad to have planned a week of travel before work just for the acclimation. 

So here’s my highlights for the last two days… 

April 3rd.  Land in New Delhi, slept through almost all of my flights.  I suppose med school makes one tired, and the exhaustion kicked in on the planes.  Good timing, flying around the world was fast and easy that way.  Arrive around 8pm local time.  Customs actually super easy.  Mo and I talked about buying a bottle of alcohol duty free to celebrate, but neither one of us really wanted to drink so we didn’t.  Walked out to the front of the airport where I realized I had forgotten to print out the reservation confirmation for our hotel, including details of where we were getting picked up by the driver.  No driver holding my name in sight at the international terminal.  Damn.  Mo asked a tourist company for our hotel address and phone number, and we were given it with only a slightly snarky comment about how we could fly here with no reservation information.  Yup, I felt stupid.  Mo wandered outside to look around, found driver, and then was not allowed back in the airport to get me.  She finally convinced the guard to let her in a few feet, and got my attention.  During that time, I had found a new friend.  So the three of us hoofed off with the driver (who walked amazingly fast), we all got in the cab, and he immediately asked if Mo was going to tip him.  Funny stuff.  Since then, this has become common practice, but it was totally unexpected right then.  So we were off, until the gas station at least, where we all had to get out of the car and stand there while they poured fuel into the front of the car.  We all thought he was going to ask us to pay for gas too, but luckily that got avoided as well.

Hostel was located down a very tiny, very cramped and busy and dirty and highly signed alley with lots of people and stray dogs and rickshaws (people biking with seats holding passengers) and motorcycles moving around.  Initially the driver pointed down a tiny alley off the alley and said our hotel was down there, but Mo was super smart and said we’d tip after he took us to the hotel itself.  It seriously looked like a place you could be killed and no one would really notice what was going on with all of the ruckus. So he took us there, and it ended up being a very nice hostel down the end of the little alley.  That was a relief.  Checked in, got room, laughed at shower just chilling in the middle of the bathroom, and then went out to find the train station that we would need to be at 5 hours later.  Only went down one wrong alley on the way back, so all was good.  12:30am bedtime, India time.

4:30am India time.  I hate mornings.  On the train to Agra.  Asleep right away for Mo, reading for me until I fell asleep too. 

9am – in Agra, tour with KK, amazing day!  Mo and I were star attractions today, and everyone wanted pictures with the tall and blond tourists. Read Mo’s blog for further details on awesome Agra.
4/5/11

2:00am.  The lights and fan turned on full blast.  Out of nowhere.  Perhaps we left them on when we fell asleep and the power goes out and back on sporadically at night?

7am. No hot water in the shower in the middle of the bathroom.  Refreshing in the most freezing cold sense of the word.

So breakfast began at 8, and was run by a man that required a voucher, and you to be sat down, before he would even talk to you about breakfast.  And by talk, I mean he pointed, said “sign”, and then took the voucher.  A few minutes later a mango juice box (my new favorite!), a piece of toast (Mo’s tasted like cleaning acid), a piece of toast coated in egg (I think), and some jelly, milk, and a tiny banana arrived.  Pretty tasty breakfast.  So we went to the internet cafĂ©, found a hostel in Mumbai (Bombay, very expensive), checked email, set up a tour for the two of us and our Austrian friend, and then checked out of the hostel. 

Tour begins:  Us: “Where are we going?”  Head nod.  Takes us to an amazing red and white temple that says something about being an active temple, and has a sign out front saying Buddhist something or another.  Other than that, we have no idea what we are seeing, and the guide doesn’t speak enough English to detail what exactly we are being dropped off at.  So we walk in, look around, see amazing statues that I believe look like Hindu gods/goddesses but I don’t know enough to really have any idea, and then see people getting red smudges on their foreheads and throwing flowers.  Found out by girls later on in day that the red smudges are bhindi, but I still have no idea what was going on with the flowers.  And I still really don’t know about the type of temple I was at, because the guidebook mentions one that sounded identical but called it a Hindu temple.  So, yeah, internet research when we get home I supposed.  Then we drove by parliament (they had elephant shaped bushes out front!), and were dropped off at the Ghandi Shirti (sp?, I don’t know, I’m on a train and Mo is reading the guidebook).  Anyway, it was where Ghandi was living and was assassinated while going to prayer.  It was so quiet, and we met this volunteer there who was so friendly and good to us.  So we tried to tip him, as everyone else had been wanting tips, but he said he couldn’t take them and it may have been very rude to have tried.  I don’t understand this system, where everyone wants to rip off the foreigners, but the one person who deserves it for being helpful isn’t part of that system.  I probably will never understand, but I really hope he knows that we didn’t mean it as an insult.

On to the B’hai lotus temple and a shopping center, with other places thrown in but I can’t really remember right now because it has been a really busy last two days.  And then on to our amazing, air conditioned, curtain hanging, food being served every hour train that feels like luxury in a sardine can.   I have been taking pictures of all sorts of food I have been eating, and the train is no different.  We get indian snacks and dinner and breakfast and coffee and tea and people are oh so very nice to us on this train.  Then Mo and I go to sleep (again), Mo around 5:30pm and me around 6pm.  And other than my adventure in the indian style toilet (hole in ground) on a moving train, neither one of us moved until I woke up at 3:30am and Mo work up around 6am.  Life is pretty sweet here.

9:19am.  First disagreement that actually became verbal.  It’s amazing how little things turn into big things when they really don’t matter in the first place.  Perhaps we are both right, or wrong, or perhaps we are both emotional, but traveling is as exhausting as it is exhilarating and that is hard to remember throughout the process.   So the 16th hour of sitting/laying on a bunk in a train rolls on, and so does life. 

Heather

Monday, April 4, 2011

DAY 1 in Delhi

Really this more night 1 in delhi,
We came in at about 9pm and drove to our hostel for about 1h. Delhi is really spread out, it's unbelievable the amount of people on the roads (cars, rickshaw, pedicabs, horse carriage, bicycle and motorcycles). Also people here drive on the left side of the road, which I hadn't experience since my trip to Australia. We met a girl from Austria who shared our bad to our hotel who had been traveling for one year by herself, and who is finishing her journey over the next 7 weeks, she told us that from what she know India, Australia, England and a few old british colonies in Africa drive on the left. Good times!
Our hotel is small, stinky, and in a tiny tiny place BUT we are safe, our door locks and there is someone monitoring who inters and leaves.We had to good surprise to not have linen on our bed, but he had each brought our own travel sheets and sleeping bag/pillow for those of you who intend on traveling, never go to a warm country don't ever leave without your travel sheets (it looks like a sleeping bag but really think and fits in jean pockets).
Although we only were in the hotel for 5hours we crashed hard after long travel ! Pictures will come in our next internet cafe stop since this one will not allow us to upload pictures.

We got up around 430am to catch our 5am train to Agra which was 3h long.
Agra is the city where the Taj Mahal is located. We spent the day there from 9am to 3pm. What a fantastic experience.
We hired a guide in an autorickshaw to take us around. we figured we would see more than by foot since our time there was so limited. We ended up paying 900 rupees for the day (about 20$) and it was the best idea ever. Our guide Mr. K.K was very nice, friendly and full of great advice, he thought us how to not get ripped off, how to buy water and make sure it's acutally commercial water and not just recycled city water but into used bottles and sold as new. He took us to the old Agra, the Baby Taj, to the Red Fort and finally to the magnificient Taj Mahal. The peace and the shade paired with the amazing beauty was one of my favorite places. Located in the heart of traffic,noise and pollution, the baby taj is a smaller, more detailed version of the taj mahal tomb. The marble is very fine, very soft and amazingly detailed. To visit the inside foreigners get to cover their feet in hospital like slippers.
For lunch we were shown the local food, in a small little restaurant; up until then we were leery to try the street food because of how many stories we had read and heard of foreigners getting sick from the dirty water used or the fresh food. The Naan here is AMAZING, nothing to do with the naan served in the US, there are so many different kinds, from garlic to spicy peppery. I am officially in love with DAL which is a stew like mix of lentils and spices, absolutely phenomenal, since my stomach doesn't usually do spices, the DAL with jasmin rice is a mouthful, I recommend it!
After visiting the Taj Mahal we came back to Delhi by train, experiencing our first episode of bribe. We accidentaly got on the wrong train that happened to go to the same station and at the same time that we were supposed to leave agra from BUT was apparently a different train. The official who was controlling our tickets told us that our tickets were not for this train and that we were therefore illegal and has to buy new ones, but because he was nice he gave us 2 options: 1. buy a ticket with receipt from him for 700 rupees or one "without" receipt for 300rupees, no need to say which one we shows. :)
Finally an exciting moment was to wake up from napping in the train and opening my eyes to 5 people sitting by us, who weren't there when we fell asleep and who were staring at us sleeping. Yes, weird. However i laughed because I knew our skin color and Heather's blond hair was very entertaining to them.
During our tour of the Taj, several people ( and I mean 1 family, and 4 different groups of friends) asked us to take pictures. Not picking up on it initially i grabbed their camera and waited for them to pose in front of the Taj. This is when they all laughed and grabbed the camera from my hands and explained to heather and i that they wanted a picture of the men with us, the tourists, haha.  Good times.
Enough for this day.
More to come ! Cheers !
Mo.




1rst post - WE MADE IT TO INDIA

Dear Family, Friends and Followers
Thank you so much for taking the time to read these posts and follow our blog. 
First of all thank you so much for your patience. It took us forever to be able to find the time and the place to update our blog. 
Our travel when suprisingly smoothly, we took 3 planes: Phoenix to San Francisco (2h), then to Newark(8h) then to Delhi(13h). 
Upon our arrival we were greeted by our driver sent by our hostel for our airport transfer for about 10dollars us. Many many drivers were waiting in front of the airport, holding name cards for their clients, it was impressive to see 100-150 men shouting out names. Then was the great adventure of experiencing driving in India !
the first culture shock was to realize that traffic lights, traffic lanes and speed limits are a recommendation apparently. On a 50km/hr road we averaged about 70km/hr in a small taxi minibus probably the size of a small car with no front. Peeks were at 90km/hr  when sqeezing between semi's and avoiding bicyclist and horse carriage. The second impressive transportation culture shock is that all this anarchy creates a remarkable dance, without accidents, or road rage, just a lock of honking and fast pace peeks in mirrors.
The heat is dry here, so far, therefore it's warm but not overwhelming yet. Our hostel is located in a very busy and poor side of town in between the new delhi and the market part of town. At first it was interesting to put up with the amount of people asking us to give money, to use their rickshaw (cab like/scooter 3 wheeler), or to buy their food cooked on the floor in the backstreet. But now it feels like a normal part of life, people are very welcoming yet very quickly will do anything they can for money. Every place we have visited prices for entries can be about 200-300 rupees for foreigners and 5 for Indian tourists.
In terms of our activity our first was to figure out the money situation. For those of you who want to learn about the travel experience: we had checked in with our respective banks prior to departure and found out that most american cards will charge us about 3% of the withdraw amount for fee, and the conversion rate here is about 42-43 rupees for a dollar when the actual exchange rate is 44. Not so bad, noticing how strong the dollar is. 
In terms of expenses, if you are planning on doing something similar to us, here is our list:
airfare: 1300 dollars booked at least 4months in advance, Visa for 6months 75 dollars takes at least 10days to get it,.vaccines: Hep A (2 shots 6 months apart, 85$), Typhoid( 80$ for 5 years), malaria meds (20$), we chose not to do rabbies for 300$ because we weren't planning on interacting with animals, HepB is also required; hotels in Delhi (1300 rupees for 2 for 2 nights- recall this is on the cheaper end of things), food ( about 100-200 rupees depending if you want a sit down AC place or more local).

I cannot think of any additional logistics to post but if you have anything extra you'd like to know, feel free to comment on this post or shoot me an email.
Cheers,
Mo.